How to Measure for a Secondhand Suit Fit
The best way to determine whether a secondhand suit will fit is to compare both the jacket and trouser measurements to a suit you already own and wear comfortably. If you don't currently own a suit, compare your body measurements—including chest, waist, sleeve length, and inseam—to the measurements provided by the seller. While size tags such as 42R, EU 52, or Drop 7 provide useful starting points, actual garment measurements are far more reliable when purchasing a secondhand suit online.
This is especially important when buying secondhand menswear, where previous owners may have altered the jacket or trousers. Sizing standards can also vary significantly between brands, countries, fit profiles, and eras. Understanding how suit sizes work—and how to interpret the measurements provided by a seller—can help you shop with confidence and avoid costly mistakes.
Understanding Suit Sizes
Most men's suits use a combination of a chest size and a length designation.
Examples include:
- 40S = 40 chest, Short length
- 40R = 40 chest, Regular length
- 40L = 40 chest, Long length
The number generally corresponds to the wearer's chest size, while the letter indicates the jacket's proportions. The chest measurement will be different then the chest size.
Understanding Short (S), Regular (R), and Long (L) Sizes
In addition to the chest size, most suits include a length designation:
- Short (S): Designed for men with shorter torsos and arms. Sleeves and overall jacket length are typically about 1 inch shorter than a Regular.
- Regular (R): The standard proportion used by most manufacturers.
- Long (L): Designed for taller men. Sleeves and overall jacket length are typically about 1 inch longer than a Regular (R).
- Extra Long (XL): Occasionally found in both modern and vintage tailoring, with sleeves and jacket lengths approximately 2 inches longer than a Long (L).
For example, a 42S, 42R, and 42L generally have similar chest measurements but differ in sleeve length and overall jacket length.
Because manufacturers use slightly different sizing standards, these differences should be viewed as general guidelines rather than exact rules. Always compare the actual garment measurements whenever possible.
Understanding Suit Fits
Not all suits with the same tagged size fit the same way. In addition to size, manufacturers often design garments using different fit profiles.
Traditional Fit
Traditional-fit suits provide the fullest cut through the chest, waist, and seat. This style was common in American tailoring for decades and is frequently found in vintage menswear.
Classic Fit
Classic fit offers a balanced silhouette with moderate room through the chest and waist. Many business suits and sport coats use this cut because it provides comfort without appearing overly relaxed.
Modern Fit
Modern fit falls between classic and slim fit. It offers a slightly trimmer silhouette while maintaining enough room for comfort and movement.
Slim Fit
Slim-fit suits feature a more tapered cut through the chest, waist, and trousers. While popular in contemporary menswear, slim-fit garments often measure differently than classic-fit garments with the same tagged size.
Relaxed Fit
Relaxed-fit garments provide additional room through the torso, seat, and thighs. These cuts prioritize comfort and ease of movement over a more tailored appearance.
Understanding Fit Terminology
When describing suit fits, you'll often see terms such as fuller, moderate, tapered, or trimmer. These terms refer to how much room a garment provides through the chest, waist, sleeves, and trousers.
- Fuller: Provides additional room and ease of movement. Common in traditional and relaxed fits.
- Moderate: Offers a balanced amount of room without feeling overly loose or restrictive. Common in classic fits.
- Trimmer: Cut closer to the body with less excess fabric. Common in modern and slim fits.
- Tapered: Gradually narrows through the waist, sleeves, or trouser legs to create a more fitted silhouette.
- Ease: The extra space built into a garment beyond your actual body measurements to allow comfortable movement.
For example, a classic-fit 42R may have more ease through the waist than a slim-fit 42R, even though both jackets share the same tagged size.
How Fit Profiles Affect Measurements
When comparing secondhand suits, it's important to remember that two jackets with the same tagged size can have very different measurements depending on their intended fit.
- A 42R Slim Fit suit will typically have a more tapered waist and narrower sleeves than a 42R Classic Fit suit.
- A 42R Modern Fit suit generally falls between slim and classic fit.
- A 42R Traditional Fit suit often provides the most room through the chest, waist, and seat.
- A 42R Relaxed Fit suit is designed with additional ease for comfort and movement.
Common Fit Characteristics
| Fit Type | Chest | Waist | Sleeves | Overall Appearance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Fit | Fuller | Fuller | Standard | Roomiest silhouette |
| Classic Fit | Moderate | Moderate | Standard | Balanced, timeless fit |
| Modern Fit | Moderate | Slightly tapered | Slightly trimmer | Contemporary appearance |
| Slim Fit | Trimmer | Tapered | Narrower | Close-fitting silhouette |
| Relaxed Fit | Fuller | Fuller | Fuller | Maximum comfort and ease |
Typical Suit Jacket Measurements by Size
The chart below provides a general reference for common suit jacket sizes and associated measurements. Actual measurements may vary depending on the manufacturer, fit profile (traditional, classic, modern, or slim), era, and previous alterations.
| Tagged Size | Chest (Pit-to-Pit) | Shoulders | Sleeve Length | Jacket Length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 36R | 18.5" - 19.5" | 17" - 17.5" | 24" - 24.5" | 29" - 30" |
| 38R | 19.5" - 20.5" | 17.5" - 18" | 24.5" - 25" | 29.5" - 30.5" |
| 40R | 20.5" - 21.5" | 18" - 18.5" | 25" - 25.5" | 30" - 31" |
| 42R | 21.5" - 22.5" | 18.5" - 19" | 25.5" - 26" | 30.5" - 31.5" |
| 44R | 22.5" - 23.5" | 19" - 19.5" | 26" - 26.5" | 31" - 32" |
| 46R | 23.5" - 24.5" | 19.5" - 20" | 26" - 26.5" | 31.5" - 32.5" |
| 48R | 24.5" - 25.5" | 20" - 20.5" | 26.5" - 27" | 32" - 33" |
| 50R | 25.5" - 26.5" | 20.5" - 21" | 27" - 27.5" | 32.5" - 33.5" |
| 52R | 26.5" - 27.5" | 21" - 21.5" | 27.5" - 28" | 33" - 34" |
| 54R | 27.5" - 28.5" | 21.5" - 22" | 28" - 28.5" | 33.5" - 34.5" |
Important: These measurements are intended as general reference points only. A slim-fit 42R, classic-fit 42R, and vintage traditional-fit 42R may all measure differently. Always review the actual garment measurements provided by the seller before purchasing.
Our How to Measure a Secondhand Sport Coat to Ensure a Good Fit guide will provide more detailed information on how to measure the suit jacket portion.
What If You Don't Own a Suit?
If you're purchasing your first suit, start by taking a few basic body measurements. Measure your chest at its fullest point, your natural waist, your sleeve length, and your inseam. While these measurements won't be as precise as comparing garments, they can help you identify an appropriate starting size. If you are unsure how to take the basic body measurements, our How to Measure a Secondhand Sport Coat, Blazer, & Suit guide will provide a detailed step-by-step instructions for you.
If possible, visit a local menswear retailer or tailor and try on a few jackets to determine whether you generally wear a Short, Regular, or Long size. Even if you don't purchase a suit there, knowing your approximate size can make shopping secondhand significantly easier.
Understanding European Suit Sizes and Suit Drop
Many European manufacturers use a sizing system based on centimeters rather than traditional U.S. chest sizes.
| US Size | EU Size |
|---|---|
| 38 | 48 |
| 40 | 50 |
| 42 | 52 |
| 44 | 54 |
| 46 | 56 |
| 48 | 58 |
European sizing is common among Italian and European tailoring brands such as Canali, Corneliani, Ermenegildo Zegna, and Lubiam.
Reading a European Suit Label
In the example above:
- 56 = European chest size
- 7 = Suit drop
- R = Regular length
What Is a Suit Drop?
A suit drop refers to the difference between the jacket size and trouser waist size.
For example:
| Jacket Size | Drop | Approximate Trouser Waist |
|---|---|---|
| 40R | 6 | 34" |
| 42R | 6 | 36" |
| 44R | 6 | 38" |
A drop 7 suit generally means the trousers are approximately 7 inches smaller than the jacket size.
Keep in mind that many secondhand suits have been altered during their lifetime. While the size tag and suit drop provide useful starting points, actual garment measurements should always be used to confirm fit.
What About European Half Sizes?
Some European manufacturers use half sizes such as 25, 26, or 27.
These sizes are often intended for men with shorter proportions while maintaining the same chest size as the corresponding regular size.
For example:
| Regular EU Size | Short EU Size |
|---|---|
| 50 | 25 |
| 52 | 26 |
| 54 | 27 |
A size 26 generally corresponds to a U.S. 42 Short.
Don't Overlook US Odd Sizes
When shopping secondhand, you may occasionally encounter sizes such as 39S, 43R, or 45L.
These sizes were often produced to provide a more precise fit between traditional even-numbered sizes. For shoppers who consistently find themselves between sizes, an odd-sized suit may offer a better fit while requiring fewer alterations.
As with any suit, measurements matter more than the size tag. A 43R from one manufacturer may fit differently than a 43R from another, making it important to review the garment's actual measurements before purchasing.
What Is an Overarm Measurement?
An overarm measurement is taken around the fullest part of the chest and arms while wearing a dress shirt. Unlike a traditional chest measurement, which is taken under the arms, the overarm measurement includes the shoulder blades and upper arms.
Some tailors and made-to-measure clothiers use this measurement to help determine the appropriate jacket size and amount of ease required for comfort and movement.
While most secondhand sellers do not provide overarm measurements, understanding this measurement can be useful for buyers who consistently find suit jackets restrictive through the shoulders, upper back, or arms.
The Measurements That Matter Most
Jacket Measurements
Pay close attention to:
- Chest (pit-to-pit)
- Shoulder width
- Sleeve length
- Jacket length
Among these measurements, shoulder width is often the most difficult and expensive area to alter.
Trouser Measurements
For suit trousers, focus on:
- Waist
- Rise
- Inseam
- Leg opening
These measurements often provide a more accurate indication of fit than the tagged size alone.
Can a Suit Be Tailored?
Most suits can be tailored to improve fit, but some alterations are easier and more economical than others.
Common alterations include:
- Shortening or lengthening sleeves
- Taking in or letting out the jacket waist
- Adjusting trouser waist size
- Hemming trouser length
More extensive alterations, such as changing shoulder width or significantly altering jacket length, are often costly and may not be practical.
From the Haberdasher
After handling hundreds of secondhand jackets and suits, we've found that shoulder width is one of the most overlooked measurements. Sleeves and waist adjustments are relatively common, but shoulder alterations are often expensive and may not be practical. When in doubt, start with the shoulders.
Final Thoughts
When buying a secondhand suit online, measurements are far more reliable than size tags alone because some suits have no visible size tags because they were hand-made for the original owner or are vintage (pre-1972 when size tags became required). Understanding jacket sizes, fit profiles, European sizing systems, suit drop, odd sizes, and key garment measurements can help you make more informed purchasing decisions.
By comparing actual measurements to a suit you already own—or to your own body measurements—you'll greatly improve your chances of finding a secondhand suit that fits well from the moment it arrives.
If you are ready to shop for a secondhand suit, check out our The Suit & Tuxedo Shop.
