Our Glossary
A
Acetate – A synthetic lining fabric often found in vintage American blazers. While less breathable than Bemberg, it is durable and drapes well, commonly seen in 1970s-80s distinct "Club" blazers.
B
Barathea – A soft, pebble-textured fabric (usually wool) used almost exclusively for Tuxedos and formalwear. It absorbs light to create a deep, rich black. Bemberg – The gold standard for jacket linings. A rayon fabric that breathes like cotton but feels like silk. A sign of high-quality tailoring. Bird’s Eye – A fabric pattern of small dots that resemble a bird's eye. From a distance, it looks solid; up close, it offers rich texture. A staple for business suits. Break – The fold or crease created where the pant leg hits the shoe.
• No Break: The pant leg barely touches the shoe (Modern/Italian).
• Full Break: The pant leg folds significantly (Traditional/American).
C
Canvassed (Full & Half) – The internal architecture of a suit jacket. A canvas layer (usually horsehair and cotton) sits between the fabric and lining to give the jacket shape.
• Fused: Glued. Stiff and cheap.
• Canvassed: Stitched. Molds to your body over time. The hallmark of a quality suit. Cuff (Turn-up) – The folded hem at the bottom of a pant leg. In Ivy League style, a 1.5" to 2" cuff is the standard finish for trousers.
Condition - Each item is condition graded following the guidance in our Product Condition & Cleanliness Guide based upon the following condition grades:
- New
- New with Imperfections
- Secondhand — Excellent
- Secondhand — Good
Every piece in the Bearded Yankee collection is inspected with care. Our goal is simple:
deliver premium secondhand menswear with zero surprises.
By standardizing condition ratings and pairing them with detailed photos, we help you shop confidently — knowing exactly what you’ll receive.
D
Darted vs. Undarted –
• Darted: A jacket with vertical seams (darts) on the front to taper the waist. (European/Modern).
• Undarted (Sack): A jacket with no front darts, hanging straight from the shoulders. The Holy Grail of authentic Ivy League style. Doeskin – A napped fabric similar to flannel but softer and often used for premier navy blazers and vests.
F
Flannel – A soft, woven wool fabric with a "fuzzy" nap. The quintessential fabric for the Grey Flannel Suit—the uniform of mid-century corporate America.
G
Glen Check (Prince of Wales) – A wool fabric woven with a large-scale plaid pattern, usually in grey or muted earth tones. Originally a Scottish district check, now a business essential. Gorge – The point where the collar meets the lapel. A "high gorge" is modern/Italian; a "low gorge" is traditional/80s.
H
Hopsack – A basket-weave wool fabric that is breathable and resistant to wrinkles. The #1 fabric for the Bearded Yankee Casual Blazer because of its texture and versatility. Houndstooth – A duotone textile pattern characterized by broken checks or four-pointed shapes. A classic choice for sport coats.
I
Ivy League Style – An American sartorial aesthetic born on East Coast university campuses (1950s-60s). Defined by the "Sack" suit, natural shoulders, button-down collars (OCBD), and penny loafers.
L
Lapel (Notch vs. Peak) –
• Notch: The standard collar for business suits and blazers. The top and bottom of the lapel meet at an angle.
• Peak: A more formal lapel where the edges point upward toward the shoulders. Common on double-breasted jackets and Tuxedos.
M
Madras – A lightweight cotton fabric with a patterned texture and plaid design, used primarily for summer jackets and pants. Mohair – Fabric made from the hair of the Angora goat. It has a slight sheen and a crisp, dry hand, making it excellent for evening wear and travel suits.
N
Natural Shoulder – A jacket shoulder with little to no padding, following the natural slope of the body. A defining feature of the "American Sack Suit" and Neapolitan tailoring.
P
Patch Pocket – An external pocket sewn onto the outside of the jacket rather than inside the lining. This detail instantly makes a jacket more casual and "sporty." Pick Stitching – Visible hand-stitching along the edges of the lapel and pockets. A sign of high-end manufacturing.
R
Rise – The distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband.
• High Rise: Sits at the natural waist (Vintage standard).
• Low Rise: Sits at the hips (Modern standard).
S
Sack Suit – The iconic American silhouette (Brooks Brothers, J. Press). Features a 3-roll-2 button stance, no front darts, and a single center vent. It fits loosely and comfortably. Super Numbers (Super 100s, 120s) – A grading scale for wool fiber fineness. The higher the number, the finer and silkier the cloth—but also the more fragile.
• Super 100s-120s: The workhorse. Durable daily wear.
• Super 150s+: Luxury. Delicate.
T
Three-Roll-Two (3/2 Roll) – A jacket with three buttons, but constructed so the top button rolls under the lapel and is never buttoned. The wearer only buttons the middle button. A secret handshake of the Ivy League enthusiast. Tweed – A rough, woolen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture. Essential for the "English Country" look and winter layering.
U
Union Made – Garments manufactured in the USA by unionized labor (ACWA/ACTWU). In vintage clothing, the Union Label is a reliable method for dating the era of the garment.
V
Vent – The slit in the back of the jacket.
• Center Vent: One slit in the middle (American Classic).
• Side Vents: Two slits on the sides (European/British).
• Hook Vent: A center vent that closes with a slight "hook" shape at the top (Ivy League specific).
W
Worsted – Smooth, compact wool yarn used for most business suits. Unlike flannel (which is fuzzy), worsted is combed flat for a clean finish.