How to Measure a Secondhand Sport Coat, Blazer, & Suit
The Bearded Yankee Measuring Guide
The Golden Rule: Trust the Tape, Not the Tag Vintage sizing is different from modern "vanity" sizing. A suit tagged "42R" in 1990 fits differently than a "42R" from 2024. To ensure "Zero Surprises," we provide actual measurements for every garment.
How We Measure (And How You Should Too) To find your fit, take a garment you already own that fits you perfectly. Lay it flat on a table (do not stretch it) and measure the following points to compare with our listing.
1. Pit-to-Pit (The Chest)
• How We Measure: From the exact corner of one underarm seam across to the other.
• The Math: Double this number to get the approximate chest size (e.g., 21" across = 42" Chest).
2. Shoulder Width
• How We Measure: From the top of the left shoulder seam straight across the back to the top of the right shoulder seam.
3. Sleeve Length (Critical!)
• How We Measure: From the top shoulder seam down the outside of the arm to the very edge of the cuff.
• Note: We do not measure from the center of the back.
4. Front Length
• How We Measure: From the bottom of the collar seam (nape of the neck) down the center front to the bottom hem.
• Note: We exclude the collar height from this measurement.
Client Measuring Guide:
1. How to Measure (The Flat Lay Method) Take a garment you already own that fits you perfectly. Lay it flat on a table (do not stretch it) and measure the following points. Compare these numbers to our listing to find your match.
2. For Jackets & Sport Coats
• A. Pit-to-Pit (Chest): Measure across the chest from one underarm seam to the other. Double this number to get the approximate chest size (e.g., 21" across = 42" Chest).
• B. Shoulder Width: Measure across the top of the back, from one shoulder seam to the other.
• C. Sleeve Length: Measure from the top shoulder seam down to the cuff edge.
• D. Front Length: Measure from the bottom of the collar down to the front hem.
3. For Trousers
• Waist: Button the pants and lay them flat. Measure across the waistband. Double this number for the actual waist size.
◦ Note: A size "34" tag often measures 35" or 36" in modern brands, but may measure exactly 34" in vintage. Always check the inches.
• Inseam: Measure from the crotch seam down the inside leg to the hem.
How to measure yourself
It's helpful, but not essential, to know your actual measurements. You’ll need a tailor’s tape measure and someone to help you.
Chest: With your arms at your sides, measure around the fullest part of your chest, across shoulder blades and under arms.
Trouser Waist: Measure the waist below the navel. The measuring tape should be snug (do not measure over your belt). Tell the truth!
Inside Leg: Unless you know each other intimately, this measurement is done with trousers on! Place the measuring tape at the crotch of the trousers and measure down to the bottom of the ankle.
A few points to remember
We sometimes need to ignore the size labels on vintage garments as they were often sized a little smaller in the old days. Over the years we have got used to ‘vanity' sizing! (The one exception is vintage overcoat sizing.) Also, garments may have been altered by a previous owner.
